What’s good about AHAs, BHAs and BPOs?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

The family name for a group of naturally occurring acids referred to as “fruit acids.” AHAs are derived from a variety of sources including sugarcane, apples, grapes, citrus fruits, sour milk and rice. They are used in moisturizers, emollients and exfoliants. Their activity and benefits are dependent on the type of AHA used, the concentration employed and the pH of the formula.

They are proven to produce a reduction of fine lines and superficial wrinkles, a lightening of surface pigmentation, and softer skin with improved hydration. They work by dissolving the “glue” that holds dead cells together on the surface of the skin.

The three most commonly used alpha hydroxy acids are lactic acid, glycolic acid and pyruvic acid:

• Lactic acid is used mostly as a body moisturizer to remove superficial, scaly dead cells and to lessen the rough, irritated skin that occurs on arms and legs. Lac-Hydrin 30 is a higher concentration of lactic acid available by prescription only. Lac-Hydrin 30 joins Renova as the creams that reverse some of the sun aging process.

• Glycolic acid is used for restoring even color and smooth texture to the skin. The strength of glycolic acid is crucial to its effect. Dermatologist Dr. Neal Schultz, author of It's Not Just About Wrinkles believes, “glycolic acid is the most effective active ingredient with the widest therapeutic margin -of all the keratolytics. You have to use it in the right strength and form to see results.”
  Over-the-counter glycolic acids generally contain less than 10 percent (3 or 4 percent) of glycolic acid whereas prescription strength glycolic acids generally contain more than 10 percent free acid concentration.

• Pyruvic acid is used in doctors’ offices to do a controlled peel of the skin. It’s designed to remove enough layers of the skin to cause crusting.

Beta hydroxy acid (BHAs)
Beta hydroxy acids are naturally derived compounds. Salicylic acid is the best known example of a beta hydroxy acid. Used to reduce wrinkles and dry flaky skin, aging skin, acne and can help reduce mildly uneven pigmentation. Salicylic acid is classified as an aromatic acid that is primarily used to treat childhood and teenage acne. Since the anti-aging market arrived the uses of salicylic acid expanded into astringents, cleansers, creams and chemical peels.

Dermatologist Dr. Lawrence Green, author of The Dermatologist’s Guide to Looking Young states, “At present salicylic acid is also being used to help reduce the appearance of sun-damaged skin. Some dermatologist believe that salicylic acid, used in superficial peel strength formulation, can be as effective as but less irritating than alpha hydroxy acids in reducing sun damage.”

Benzoyl Peroxide (BPO)
A drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used in acne treatments. It irrigates and sloughs out acne impactions. BPOs reduce the level of free fatty acids and the level of skin infection. The function of BPOs is to force peroxide into the pilosebaceous orifice to reduce the population of P. acnes . "Benzoyl peroxide dries and peels the skin and removes dead cells, helps to clear blocked follicles, the non-inflammatory comedones, and it works on the papules and pustules," states Dermatologist Herbert P. Goodheart author of Acne for Dummies.

AHAs and BHAs can be added to gels, lotions, serums, or creams. However, recent research suggests that alpha hydroxy acids may make the skin more sensitive to sunlight according to Dermatologist Dr. Leslie Baumann. Therefore, do not be lax about sunscreen use.