A Closer Look at Aging

As we grow older, our skin experiences several significant changes. The skin’s natural support system begins to break down, causing fines lines, wrinkles and loss of elasticity. Additionally, the skin’s surface begins to show dark and light spots, roughness and redness. There are two theories that provide the answer for skin aging.

Intrinsic aging

This theory focuses on our bodies decreasing ability to stop free radicals from destroying our cells. Free radicals are toxic molecules formed from things such as air pollution, smoking, and exposure to sun. They break down the basic skin biochemicals that maintain skin structure and safeguard hydration. Free radicals promote the dissolution of collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin. “Intrinsically aged skin can have fine or small wrinkles, a loose or sagging quality and skin growths that do not become cancerous, according to Dr. Lawrence Green author of The Dermatologist’s Guide to Looking Younger. Intrinsic aging refers to one’s genetic programming that changes the skin due to the passage of time and is beyond our control.

The effects of aging:

• Our skin becomes thinner and less resilient
• Gravity takes its toll and firm skin starts to sag
• Corners of our mouths turn downward
• Crossing lines on our faces more noticeable
• Movement of fat to jowls and lower eyelids
• Loss of fat from cheeks

Extrinsic Aging

This theory claims the main cause of aging is sun damage. Years of sun exposure accumulate and contribute to the most visible effects of facial aging, a process dermatologists refer to as “photoaging,” states Dr. Lawrence Green. Environmental exposure, pollutants, air quality and humidity affect the skin’s health. Pollutants in air from factories, and automobile exhaust affect the surface appearance of the skin and change the health of the underlying cells and tissues.

Photoaging effects:

• Wrinkles deeper
• Skin rough and leathery
• Pigmentation occurs
• Tiny blood vessels appear
• Cancerous growths possible

Dr. Nicholas Lowe author of Away With Wrinkles provides a rough guide to the first signs of facial aging.

Signs of facial aging:

Teenage years - firm elastic skin with no wrinkles

Twenties- reasonably smooth without any major lines

Thirties- a point when genetic predisposition begins to show; appearance of sunspots, red precancerous skin lesions and creasing of the skin from repeated muscle activity begins to show.

Forties - signs of past sun exposure is more likely to show. Increased frown and smile lines and loss of firmness. Loss of plumpness in the lips may be apparent and some lines on the lower face.

Fifties to sixties-a sagging eyelid or brow droop. Deeper facial lines more noticeable and sun spots and pre-cancer spots will show.

Sixties to seventies-Depending on the amount of sun exposure, lines and brown spots will start aging the skin more severely.

Md Formulations’ www.mdformulations.com aging skin care regimen suggests:

• Cleanse and exfoliate daily with a gentle exfoliant such as glycolic acid to remove aged skin cells.
• Keep your skin well hydrated by using a moisturizer that balances skin lipids.
• Use ant-aging ingredients such as Vitamin A, glycolic acid and BHAs to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles
• Incorporate antioxidants such as superoxide dismutase, Vitamin E and C and plant extracts into your skin care.
• Use skin brightening products to help diminish age spots and improve skin tone.
• Avoid sun exposure and use a physical sunscreen containing zinc oxide every day.

Smoking and drinking contribute greatly to the aging process. The constant dilation and contraction that occurs on the tiny capillaries and blood vessels, along with the constant deprivation of oxygen and water to the tissues, quickly makes the skin appear lifeless and dull. Your skin will age according to your skin type, genetic factors, and lifestyle choices.

Ceramides

Scientists are uncovering the important role that ceramides play in the barrier function of the skin. The top layer of the skin is the epidermis and the top layer of the epidermis is the stratum corneum. Even though the stratum corneum is very thin, like one-tenth the thickness of a piece of paper -- it is the main barrier of the skin. It keeps chemicals that come in contact with the skin from absorbing into the body, and it keeps water inside the skin from leaking out.

Ceramides defined by Milady’s Standard Fundamentals for Estheticians, are lipid materials that are a natural part of the intercellular cement. The intercellular cement between the skin cells consists of ceramides, lipids, glycoproteins, and active enzymes.
Ceramides are natural lipids (fats) and a major component of skin structure. These fats allow skin to retain moisture.

The Role of Ceramides
Ceramides are essential in helping to form multiple layers of lipids, which, in turn, retain water. Ceramides play a central role as water regulators primarily because of their abundant presence in the skin and high capacity to prevent water loss. This is why ceramides are so effective in creating a barrier-recovery effect.

Lipids in the Skin
The stratum corneum contains three types of lipids:

• ceramides,
• cholesterol
• and free fatty acids.

These lipids have different chemical compositions and different functions throughout the body.
The quantity of these diminishes as we age, resulting in a decrease in the skin’s suppleness, softness, smoothness, and the tendency towards dryness.

Lipids provide a barrier against the loss of moisture and provide protection from other types of external elements. In the corneum, 40-50% of these lipids are primarily composed of ceramides.
Ceramides and other lipid-type materials have been called “cellular cement,” because they make up the foundation for materials, which hold epidermal skin cells in place. Without these lipids, the cells would simply slough off after moisture is lost. Ceramides are important in the treatment of dry skin. Externally applied ceramides help replenish and improve the skin’s ability to reduce desquamation.

In general, ceramides and synthetic ceramides are added to cosmetic formulations such as moisturizers and other beauty products to replenish the content of lipids within the upper layers of the skin. This leads to an increase in skin softness and smoothness and a reduction in the amount of constantly escaping moisture. Moisture loss leads to dehydration, excessive scaling or flaking, desquamation and increased potential for irritation.

What do Ceramides do?
In cosmetic applications, ceramides provide the skin with materials, which are slowly depleted during the aging process, but are responsible for maintaining a youthful appearance by reinforcing the natural barrier function of superficial epidermal layers.

Ceramides used in cosmetic preparations may be obtained from biological, botanical, marine or synthetic sources. The different types of ceramides are distinguished by analysis of their unique chemical structure.

Most cosmetic labels will accurately list ceramides by using their own specific terminology names such as the following:
Glycosphinogolipids
Sphingolipids
Glycosyl ceramides

Other comparable listings found to be of benefit include:
Phospholipids
Cholesterol
Essential fatty acids (called EFAs)
Linoleic acid
Arachidonic acid

Ceramides are necessary for the skin’s water-retention capacity as well as for cell regulation. Adding ceramides to skin-care products can help to restore the skin’s barrier system.

Facial Masks

Masks are designed as an intensive treatment for various skin problems. Masks fall into two general categories:

Setting masks harden and dry after a few minutes of exposure to air. They are used for cleansing, to remove surface dead cells, and to absorb sebum. Setting masks are good to firm mature skin by trapping moisture in the surface layers.

Non-setting masks are moisturizing and soothing masks. They do not harden or dry but absorb very readily. These masks are intended for dry and sensitive skins.

A mask is ingredients such as herbs, vitamins, and oils combined with clay, seaweed, or hydrating bases that together tightens, tones, hydrates, and nourishes the skin. Masks come in powder form or are already premixed.

They provide numerous benefits for the skin:

• Tighten and tone the skin
• Draw impurities out of the pores
• Clear up blemishes
• Hydrate
• Nourish
• Calm and soothe
• Rejuvenate the skin

Clay masks draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten, and stimulate circulation. These masks contain clay, kaolin, bentonite, or silica for their tightening and sebum-absorbing effects. Stronger clay masks are used on oily and combination skin. Clay-based masks with sulfur have healing and antiseptic properties and have a beneficial effect on acne.

A couple of things to consider in choosing a mask:

1. Pinpoint the skin care issue that needs attention and your skin type. Masks provide a good boost to common skin concerns such as acne, dullness, oiliness, and dryness.
   
2. Look for moisturizing and nourishing ingredients. For dry and flaky skin, moisturizing masks add a good boost of hydration. Look for these ingredient; glycerine, honey, plant oils, and antioxidants. For acne prone skin look for ingredients such as salicylic acid, glycolic acid, sulfur, and tea tree oil. To deep clean and clarify oily skin, ingredients such as green clay, umbrian clay, and kaolin clay give skin a fresh appearance.

Facial masks are most commonly used by women but are also used by men.

Products worth recommending:
Dermalogica and Peter Thomas Roth both offer masks for all skin conditions.

Dermalogica Masques: (To find a salon near your location www.dermalogica.com)

• Skin-Hydrating Masque is an orange flower based masque used on all skin conditions to hydrate and replenish.
• Skin Refining Masque is a clay-based mask designed to absorb oils and refine texture. Good for acne prone/oily skin conditions.
• Anti-Bac Cooling Masque for acne-prone skin conditions works in reducing inflammation and regulates sebum.
• Intensive Moisture Masque used for dry to ultra-dry skin conditions. This masque features essential fatty acids and honey to restore moisture and help to alleviate fine, dry lines.
• MultiVitamin Power Recovery Masque used for sun damaged and irritated skin with vitamins A, B5, C, E and F to provide repair.

Peter Thomas Roth Masques: (Sold in retail stores and on line www.peterthomasroth.com.)

• Cucumber Gel Masque is an anti-irritant gel masque for all skin types. Recommended for daily use as a hydrating and calming masque.
• Hydrating Nutrient Masque is a non-drying nutrient clay masque that adds moisture and anti-oxidants to dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin.
• Oxygen Detoxifying Masque is rich in advanced bioactive and anti-oxidant vitamins. This masque revitalizes dull. Congested skin and helps tighten pores and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

PTR Acne Masques include:

• Sulfur Cooling Masque is an aromatic medicated masque with eucalyptus, sulfur and purified clay designed to exfoliate dead skin cells and inflamed acne.
• Therapeutic Sulfur Masque is a medicated masque with sulfur and purified clay designed to exfoliate dead skin cells for problem and non-sensitive skin types. Cleanses oily, T-zone and clogged pores.

A good mask can noticably improve the appearance of the skin.

Getting to Know the Skin You're in

When we’re looking in the mirror we rarely think about the function of our skin nor do we know what is going on under its surface. Let’s take a closer look at the skin we’re in.

Our skin is divided into three layers:

1. Epidermis serves as a protective barrier consisting of five layers.
2. Dermis is the skin layer below the epidermis. It is thicker and provides the main ingredient for holding skin together.
3. Subcutaneous Layer is an important insulating layer providing cushioning and protection.

The epidermis contains 5 layers. From top to bottom, the layers are named:

Stratum corneum (top layer)
Stratum licidum
Stratum granulosum
Stratum spinosum
Stratum basale (bottom layer)

The epidermis is strong and is constantly renewing and growing from the bottom upward.
The bottom layer, the stratum basale, has cells that are shaped like columns. In this layer the cells divide and push already formed cells into higher layers. As the cells move into the higher layers, they flatten and eventually die.

The top layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, is made of dead, flat skin cells that shed about every 2 weeks. This layer provides your body with an overcoat that protects deeper cells from damage, infection, and from drying out.

The Epidermal Structure

“The most frequently occurring epidermal cell is called the keratinocyte, or cornifying cell. These cells are produced in the lower levels of the epidermis and then migrate gradually outward over a two-week period. The outermost part of the epidermis is known as the stratum corneum, or horny layer, and by the time the keratinocytes reach this part of the epidermis, they have changed from plump, round cells with nuclei to flattened cells that have started to lose their nucleus. This takes another two weeks. This process is known as cornification and is important in helping the skin to fulfill its function as a barrier,” according Dr. Nicholas Lowe author of Away with Wrinkles.

Skin Structures in the Dermis

The Dermis is the layer of skin that lies under your epidermis. The dermis is composed of three types of tissue that are present throughout but not in layers.

The types of tissue are:

• collagen
• elastic tissue
• reticular fibers

The Dermis contains sensory nerves, sweat glands, blood vessels, and hair follicles.

Subcutaneous Tissue

The subcutaneous tissue is a layer of fat and connective tissue that houses larger blood vessels and nerves. It is mostly made up of fat cells called lipocytes that are held together by collagen bands. This layer is important in the regulation of temperature of the skin itself and the body. The size of this layer varies throughout the body and from person to person.

All three main layers; the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous layer play an important part in how the outer surface of the skin appears. At the surface, skin is a tough outer layer that keeps the body waterproof and protected from invaders such as the sun, cold, burns, viruses, and other germs. But it also fights off the stress we inflict upon it with razors, bleaches, hair products, makeup, and abrasive skin-care products.

Finding the Right Moisturizer

Moisturizers are products formulated to add moisture to the skin. Lotions, hydrators and creams are all referred to as moisturizers. Depending on the formula, moisturizers can seal in moisture and protect the barrier layer of the skin. They can also hydrate and balance the oil/water moisture content of the skin.

Moisturizers are available for all skin types ranging from acne-prone skin to dry and mature skin. Even oily skin needs hydration or it will have overcompensated for dryness and produce more oil or become dehydrated.

The more oil a moisturizer contains the more effective the moisturizer becomes however, the greasier and the more unpleasant it feels. Thus, it is more likely to aggravate acne in people with oily and combination skin. Oil-based moisturizers contain emollients and are designed to protect the surface of the skin and trap water under the cream.

“Moisturizers can also be a source of acne-producing substances. In order to make these moisturizing products smooth onto the skin easily, they’re often manufactured with ingredients such as acetylated lanolin, searic acid, and cetyl alcohol. All of these ingredients are considered to be comedogenic,” says Dr. Herbert P. Goodheart, dermatologist and author of Acne for Dummies.

Moisturizers also function as humectants, i.e., by actually attracting water into the stratum corneum to hydrate the skin. Examples of this are glycerine and sodium hyaluronate, both of which are moisturizing ingredients. Hydrators also known as humectants, are ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface. An example would be sorbitol, seaweed extracts, and algae extract.

Keeping moisture in the skin preserves the skin’s youthful freshness. Water is held in the skin by certain lipids, or fats. Dermatologist, Dr. Leslie Baumann recommends consuming omega-3 fats to hydrate the skin. Contrary to popular belief, drinking water will not help skin dehydration although it is helpful for other reasons.

Dr. Baumann is the author of The Skin Type Solution and has recommended a specific moisturizer when confronting facial redness. She says, “Due to your skin’s naturally occurring oil, moisturizers may clog your pores and increase oiliness.” Dr. Baumann recommends using Rosaliac Hydrante Perfecteur by La Rohe-Posay, because it contains thermal water with selenium and niacinamide, both of which are good anti-inflammatory ingredients.

Dermatologist Dr. Neal Schultz author of It’s Not Just about Wrinkles, describes the effect of moisturizers on various skin types:

• Extremely dry or mature skin type when using an oil–based moisturizer produces an extremely moist effect.
• Very dry or mature skin type when using absorption type moisturizer produces a very moist effect.
• Dry skin type using water-in-oil emulsion moisturizer gives a moderately moist effect.
• Normal to dry skin type using oil-in-water emulsion moisturizer produces a mildly moist effect.
• Normal to oily skin type using oil free, water based moisturizer gives a slightly moist effect.

Finding the right moisturizer is an integral part of any skin care regimen. Water-based moisturizers increase the water content on the outer layers of the skin and give it a softer, more comfortable feel. Oil-based moisturizers work by holding in or retaining existing moisture.