Finding the Right Moisturizer

Moisturizers are products formulated to add moisture to the skin. Lotions, hydrators and creams are all referred to as moisturizers. Depending on the formula, moisturizers can seal in moisture and protect the barrier layer of the skin. They can also hydrate and balance the oil/water moisture content of the skin.

Moisturizers are available for all skin types ranging from acne-prone skin to dry and mature skin. Even oily skin needs hydration or it will have overcompensated for dryness and produce more oil or become dehydrated.

The more oil a moisturizer contains the more effective the moisturizer becomes however, the greasier and the more unpleasant it feels. Thus, it is more likely to aggravate acne in people with oily and combination skin. Oil-based moisturizers contain emollients and are designed to protect the surface of the skin and trap water under the cream.

“Moisturizers can also be a source of acne-producing substances. In order to make these moisturizing products smooth onto the skin easily, they’re often manufactured with ingredients such as acetylated lanolin, searic acid, and cetyl alcohol. All of these ingredients are considered to be comedogenic,” says Dr. Herbert P. Goodheart, dermatologist and author of Acne for Dummies.

Moisturizers also function as humectants, i.e., by actually attracting water into the stratum corneum to hydrate the skin. Examples of this are glycerine and sodium hyaluronate, both of which are moisturizing ingredients. Hydrators also known as humectants, are ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface. An example would be sorbitol, seaweed extracts, and algae extract.

Keeping moisture in the skin preserves the skin’s youthful freshness. Water is held in the skin by certain lipids, or fats. Dermatologist, Dr. Leslie Baumann recommends consuming omega-3 fats to hydrate the skin. Contrary to popular belief, drinking water will not help skin dehydration although it is helpful for other reasons.

Dr. Baumann is the author of The Skin Type Solution and has recommended a specific moisturizer when confronting facial redness. She says, “Due to your skin’s naturally occurring oil, moisturizers may clog your pores and increase oiliness.” Dr. Baumann recommends using Rosaliac Hydrante Perfecteur by La Rohe-Posay, because it contains thermal water with selenium and niacinamide, both of which are good anti-inflammatory ingredients.

Dermatologist Dr. Neal Schultz author of It’s Not Just about Wrinkles, describes the effect of moisturizers on various skin types:

• Extremely dry or mature skin type when using an oil–based moisturizer produces an extremely moist effect.
• Very dry or mature skin type when using absorption type moisturizer produces a very moist effect.
• Dry skin type using water-in-oil emulsion moisturizer gives a moderately moist effect.
• Normal to dry skin type using oil-in-water emulsion moisturizer produces a mildly moist effect.
• Normal to oily skin type using oil free, water based moisturizer gives a slightly moist effect.

Finding the right moisturizer is an integral part of any skin care regimen. Water-based moisturizers increase the water content on the outer layers of the skin and give it a softer, more comfortable feel. Oil-based moisturizers work by holding in or retaining existing moisture.