Monday, February 15, 2010

Lasers and Light Therapies

An alternative for people whose acne hasn’t responded to traditional acne therapies is laser and light therapies. Lasers and light therapies show evidence of improving not only inflammatory acne, but can also lead to improvement in acne scars.

Laser can be tuned to target specific structures. When used to treat acne, the beams are adjusted to penetrate below the epidermis without causing any injury to it. They travel into the dermis where they can zero in on hair follicles, sebaceous glands, and the P. acnes bacteria. Certain lasers can also be used to destroy telangiectasias and by heating dermal collagen can help to “tighten” the dermis and result in less visible scarring.

There are two basic groups of acne-treating lights. One group of technologies inhibits the growth of the bacteria P. acnes and the other group of light sources aims to shrink the sebaceous oil glands that play a prime role in causing acne. One needs to keep in mind that laser and light therapy seem to be most helpful when used in combination with traditional acne medication treatment.

According to dermatologist, Dr. Herbert Goodheart, “the U.S. Food and Drug Administration has approved a non-laser, narrow-band, high-intensity visible blue-light therapy for treating inflammatory acne. It works by killing the acne-causing bacteria, P. acnes.”

The P. acnes that reside in sebaceous glands produce chemicals known as porphyrins as a by-product of their metabolism. The high intensity light source seeks out the porphyrins that are in the bacteria which kills the bacterial cells.

Photodynamic therapy (PDT) involves applying a painless solution to your skin called aminolevulinic acid (ALA) which is a photosensitizing agent that increases sensitivity to light. It’s left on your skin for 15 to 60 minutes and allowed to accumulate in the sebaceous glands. An intense, visible blue light source activates the ALA. Within about eight to ten minutes, the chemical reaction that occurs produces heat and the bacteria are destroyed. Many treatments may be necessary to achieve satisfactory results, for the destruction of P. acnes is only temporary because they revitalize rapidly.

Lasers that are used in acne scar treatment are the resurfacing lasers (ablative) and the non-ablative lasers.

Ablative lasers remove the outer layers of the skin by using high-energy light to burn away scar tissue, and stimulate the dermal collagen to tighten, reducing the amount of scar visibility. This procedure is used for deeper scars and carries the risk of further scarring. Much effort must be put into post-operative wound care and infection protection when the skin is injured and unprotected tissue is exposed. The skin may remain reddened for several months up to a year afterwards.

Non-ablative lasers have the ability to promote collagen growth beneath an acne scar without creating an external injury. The non-ablative lasers produce a controlled injury to certain target structures in the dermis, without injuring the epidermis. By heating dermal collagen, the laser helps to tighten the dermis and result in less visible scarring. These lasers can be effective for treating shallow boxcar scars, as well as for smoothing and tightening scars that have been treated previously.

Non-ablative lasers include:

InfraRed Lasers commonly used for thermally induced dermal remodeling and tightening.

N-Lite Laser is used to trigger collagen formation.

Sprinkling Laser beams (Fraxel laser) shoots out tiny clusters of beams that burn the skin in patterns of dots. It burns away old skin cells and spurs the growth of new cells and stimulates the production of collagen that, tends to fill the dots and smooth out the skin.

There are many types of lasers and there are a number of new procedures now available that complement or surpass previous scar revision techniques.

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Five Effective Skin Creams in a Jar

Recently, a friend of mine returned home for the holidays having been in Florida for 6 weeks. When I picked her up, I immediately noticed how smooth and bright her skin looked. Her face glowed. Naturally I asked, “What are you using on your skin?”

My friend is using eb5 Facial Cream. This product has greatly improved her mature skin. What is eb5 Facial Cream?

eb5 is a wrinkle cream, throat cream, firming cream, 24-hour moisturizer and make-up base all in one simple to use jar! These five creams in one are perfect for women of all ages and skin types who have facial lines, crow’s feet and feather lips. eb5 Facial Cream is unique because of its non-greasy “synergistic” base, which helps vitamins E, A, D and B5 penetrate the skin, leaving the face and neck smooth, soft and younger looking!

The eb5 Story

The product was developed by pharmacist/chemist Robert Heldfond. In the 1950’s Heldfond began researching ways to create an ointment base that was greaseless and allowed the skin to efficiently absorb the medicinal ingredients. He was one of the first pharmacists to experiment with vitamins E and B5 (which is commonly known as panthenol, a humectant) with successful results. After supplying large quantities of his new ointment to the University of Oregon Medical Center, nurses started coming into Heldfond’s drugstore asking for large amounts of the ointment base. The nurses claimed that his ointment cleared up their hands that were often rough, and dried from repeated washings. Many had begun using this base on their faces with amazing results!

Improving upon the original formula, adding vitamins A and D and other natural ingredients, eb5 Facial Cream was born, and for years he sold it out of his drugstore. Today, eb5 Facial Cream can be found in quality department stores across the United States, along with a diverse selection of supporting products, including the ever popular Cleansing and Toning Formulas.

A few of eb5 Products

Cleansing Formula: contains alpha-hydroxy fruit acids, Vitamin E and other ingredients in a penetrating base designed to remove dead skin cells, dirt, and makeup, leaving the skin soft, smooth and ready for eb5 Facial Cream.

Toning Formula: contains herbs like Sage, Birch, Comfrey, Blackberry, Chamomile and other specially formulated ingredients designed to firm, tone and tighten the skin.

Eye Gel Formula: contains Deionized Water, Petrolatum, Propylene Glycol, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, and Centella Asiatica Extract, designed to beautify the eye area working on dark circles and puffiness under the eyes.

Age Spot Formula: contains Hydroquinone 2% and uses dark-pigment exfoliators to improve the appearance of discolorations on the hands and face known as age spots, “liver spots,” freckles and other unsightly blotching.

The product line of eb5 also includes Body Cleanser Formula, Face Formula for Men, Footcare Formula, Hand & Nail Formula and a Facial Cleansing Bar. For a list of company stores visit www.eb5.com.

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Daily Skin Care Tips for Rosacea

Here's some tips for treating rosacea skin. Keeping your skin clear will take some dedication on your part. Following a regular cleansing and medication routine will make treatment easier and more successful.

Here are some simple steps to follow:

1) Cleanse gently with a very mild cleanser. Avoid products that contain alcohol or other irritants. Dermatologists often recommend Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, a gentle soapless product available at most drugstores.

2) Medicate according to your dermatologist’s instructions.

3) Moisturize with a good quality, “noncomedogenic” (meaning it won’t clog pores) moisturizer as needed. If your treatment includes a topical medication, you can usually apply the moisturizer after the medication has dried. The Cetaphil product line also includes a moisturizer that is specially designed for sensitive skin.

4) Protect with a sunscreen of SPF 15 or higher. Look for a noncomedogenic product that does not contain alcohol.

5) Makeup can help hide your rosacea. Oil-free foundations with yellow (not pink) undertones are recommended, as are special green-tone products specifically designed to be worn under foundation to disguise facial redness. Yellow-tone cover-ups are available from many brands.

6) Maintenance requires an understanding that rosacea can’t be cured. You will need to continue using your prescription and treatment plan even when your symptoms have cleared up. Without regular therapy, your symptoms may return and possibly get worse over time.

Once you have started to enjoy results, maintaining your course of treatment becomes easier and more successful.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Rosacea

Rosacea is the fifth most common diagnosis made by dermatologists. Rosacea is not acne however; often it is referred to as “adult acne.” It begins as a tendency to flush or blush easily and progresses to persistent redness in the center of the face that may gradually involve the cheeks, forehead, chin, and nose. With time, small blood vessels and tiny pimples begin to appear on and around the reddened area. When rosacea first develops, the redness may come and go.

Dermatologist, Dr. Neal Schultz author of It’s Not Just About Wrinkles, offers this definition of rosacea. “Rosacea, a chronic disease that affects men and women in their thirties, forties, and fifties, is characterized by redness (blotches or telangiectasias) of the central area of the face due to dilation of small blood vessels.”

How to Recognize Rosacea

Small red bumps, papules and pustules appear on the face. These may be accompanied by persistent redness and the development of many tiny blood vessels on the surface of the skin. In more advanced cases, the oil glands enlarge causing a bulbous, red nose, and puffy cheeks. Thick bumps may develop on the lower half of the nose and nearby cheeks. This condition called Rhinophyma occurs more commonly in men.

“Rosacea is more common in certain ethnic groups, in particular Celtic and northern European people,” according to Dermatologist Dr. Nicholas Lowe, author of Away with Wrinkles. Fair skin adults between the ages of 30 and 50 may develop rosacea. Since it may be associated with menopause, women are affected more often than men.

The International Rosacea Foundation identifies four stages:

  1. Patients experience repeated episodes of flushing or blushing and often leads to a more persistent redness that become more noticeable to all with hard raised lesions (papules) and pus filled acne pimples (pustules).

  2. Areas of the face are persistently red; telangiectasia becomes more prominent along with papules and pimples appearing on the nose and cheeks. The skin may take on a roughened, orange peel texture with large open pores.

  3. Patients appear quite grotesque with nodules, hyperplasia, and being quite noticeable as they have already entered rosacea treatments in an earlier age. Their disfigurements include severely inflamed, thickened, edematous skin with large pores and with coarse features of thickened skin folds.

  4. A seasoned older weathered appearance of skin layering appears due to extensively inflammatory infiltration, connective tissue hypertrophy, massive fibrous and elastosis, diffuse sebaceous gland hyperplasia, and extreme enlargement of individual sebaceous glands forming dozens of yellowish unbilicated papules on the cheeks, forehead, temples and nose.

What causes Rosacea?

No one knows for certain what causes rosacea. According to the International Rosacea Foundation, researchers have suggested several factors that may be related to its development:

  • A disorder of the blood vessels that causes them to swell, leading to flushing.

  • A genetic predisposition combined with certain environmental factors that may irritate the skin.

  • Clogging of the sebaceous gland openings with skin mites called Demodex Folliculorum, which live in facial-hair follicles.

  • Vitamin-B deficiency, local infection, hydrochloric-acid (stomach acid) deficiency, infection with Helicobactor pylori, and/or digestive disorders.
Treatment

Many people with rosacea do not recognize it in its early stages. Identifying the disease is the first step to controlling it.

Dermatologists often recommend a combination of treatments tailored to the individual patient. Creams, lotions, foams, washes, gels, and pads that contain various topical antibiotics, metronidazole, sufacetimide, benzoyle peroxide, and retinoids may be prescribed. A slight improvement can be seen in the first three to four weeks of use. Greater improvement is usually noticed in two months.

Oral antibiotics tend to produce faster results than topical medications. Cortisone creams may reduce the redness; however, they should not be used for longer than two weeks since they can cause thinning of the skin and flare-ups upon discontinuation. The persistent redness may be treated with a small electric needle (electrodessication) or by laser surgery to close off the dilated blood vessels.

The key to successful management of rosacea is early diagnosis and treatment. It is important to follow all of the dermatologist’s instructions. When left untreated, rosacea will get worse and may be more difficult to treat.


Saturday, November 7, 2009

Home Care for Acne

Whether you are 12, 22, in your 40’s or 55 and over, acne is not just a phase to be tolerated or “gotten through.” It can be embarrassing and infuriating. It is not caused by improper cleansing or poor diet, though it may be aggravated by one or both.

Acne is not a disease to be cured; rather it is a condition that can and should be controlled with daily and periodic care. Acne is a genetic disease affecting the skin by a series of recurrent, infected breakouts such as blackheads, milia, pimples and cysts. Most cases of adolescent or adult acne can be controlled with topical treatments from one or more of the following sources:

1. Daily home care with professional skin care products
2. Clinical treatments by a licensed skin care therapist
3. Medical treatments by a physician or dermatologist

Excellent skin care and hygiene are vitally important to remove the excess oils and bacteria that stimulate acne.

Why do some people in their forties, fifties and sixties start having breakouts?

Stress and hormonal changes are the primary cause of the re-emergence of acne for adults between the ages of 40 and 60. According to researched compiled at The International Dermal Institute, "several factors can make a person more susceptible to acne breakouts. People who are prone to breakout should only use products that are non-acnegenic or non-comedogenic. Many of these skin-sensitizing products contain ingredients such as lanolin, artificial fragrance and colours, S.D. alcohol or mineral oil which can clog and irritate the skin.” Dermalogica’s products are non-greasy and completely water-soluble, making them ideal for breakout-prone skin. For more information visit their website http://www.dermalogica.com/.

Follow a Strict Regime in Caring for Acne Blemishes

1. Cleanse twice a day with tepid (not hot) water.

2. Use over the counter skin care products or professional skin care products faithfully; proper use can help prevent, as well as clear up, blemishes.

3. Sleep no less than seven hours per night on a consistent basis. Your body works best on a regular routine and with plenty of rest.

4. Eat a healthy balanced diet with plenty of variety and fiber.

5. Drink 6-8 glasses of water every day. Water flushes wastes from the body and helps to maintain a balance.

6. Limit seafood, salty foods and dairy; all contain iodine, which can trigger acne breakout in sensitive individuals. Avoid iodides in the diet:

Fast foods, all processed foods, seasoned salt, soy sauce, products with MSG, seaweed, sushi, Chinese food, Mexican food, nuts, processed meats (lunch meat, deli sandwiches, bacon, franks, sausage),vitamin supplements and condiments containing kelp. Cheese is one of the major acne aggravators. Hormone-laden foods, including wheat germ and peanut products, should be avoided. Some cold and flu medications contain bromides and can aggravate acne.

7. Get regular exfoliating treatments like enzyme peels with steam, or light peels (glycolic, lactic, PolyGel). They help topical medications and exfoliants, to penetrate better, and boost your home care efforts. Do not use a washcloth or buffing pad. Do not rub your face dry with a towel. These “mechanical” exfoliation methods can over-exfoliate your skin, cause excessive irritation, and can make your acne care products sting and irritate. What can be helpful is after cleansing, apply a thick coat of Peter Thomas Roth Sulfur Cooling Mask, allow it to dry for 7-10 minutes, and rinse off.

8. Change pillow cases and sheets more frequently; oils and bacteria from your skin can build up in bedding and further aggravate the matter. Wash your clothes in fragrance-free detergent, use 25% less detergent, and wash 25% less clothes at a time. Whenever possible, run an extra rinse cycle. Avoid fabric softeners, especially “sheets” thrown in the dryer. Use a white satin pillowcase laundered in fragrance-free detergent without fabric softener.

9. Stop PICKING! Picking pushes acne lesions and ingrowns deeper into the pores, slows down the healing process, can cause scarring, and can turn ordinary breakouts into larger black, brown, red or purple spots. Rub ice cubes in a circular motion on red, inflamed lesions twice a day for 2 minutes to help reduce inflammation and swelling.

10. Be certain you remove any residue of hair care products from your skin. Avoid oily products containing isopropyl myristate and its chemical cousins, cocoa butter, coconut oil, vitamin E, fatty acids and natural oils, except safflower, sunflower and mineral oil.

Facing Acne

Lifestyle changes can often improve your skin. Stress is the Number One acne aggravator so try to do whatever it takes to reduce stress in your life. Limit your intake of caffeine and cigarettes, which stimulate the adrenal glands to wreak havoc on the skin’s natural processes. Minimize your sun exposure and reapply oil-free sunblock often when exposed to direct sunlight.

Most importantly, avoid oily cosmetics and products that may also contain D & C red dyes including blushes and powders. Some “oil-free” products actually contain synthetic oils (called fatty acids), D & C red dyes, detergents, etc., that are known acne-aggravators.


With the numerous advances in skin care formulations, increasingly more people are combating their acne with regular facial treatments and complementary at-home regimens.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Topical Vitamin C Revitalizes Aging Skin

Topical Vitamin C is an important component of most anti-aging skin care regimens. The amount of collagen in the skin tends to decline with age, an ongoing process that is accelerated by a number of factors like sunlight, smoking, free radicals, and inflammation. As the synthesis of new collagen slows down, topical vitamin C provides one of the most effective ways to boost collagen synthesis and slow its degradation.

In the June 2009 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine, Dr. Peter T. Pugliese, MD stated in his article Vitamin C in Skin Care, “Vitamin C was originally used in skin care products in the form of ascorbic acid. At a 10% concentration and low ph, ascorbic acid has been shown to stimulate collagen, decrease wrinkle depth and have lightening effects on pigmentation. It was thought that a minimum 10% concentration was required but newer information indicate that lower concentrations (5%) may have benefit.” According to other reports, Topical Vitamin C products should be a strength of 0.3 to 10% for optimal effectiveness.

Topical Vitamin C is used in skin care because it is an antioxidant. This means that it is able to neutralize oxygen free radicals. Free radicals over time will damage the skin cells and deteriorate the underlying structure of the skin resulting in changes of the skin’s complexion, sun spots, and wrinkles. The use of vitamin C is a major line of defense in the treatment of aging skin because it is essential to the formation of collagen, mitigates the effects of free radicals, and helps to maintain firm and youthful skin.

The forms of Vitamin C

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucosamine and ascorbic acid are various forms of vitamin C considered stable and effective antioxidants for the skin. Vitamin C in the form of Ascorbic Acid is very expensive. Vitamin C is very unstable and difficult to get into a formulation which explains why ascorbic acid skin products tend to be very expensive.

The problem with Ascorbic Acid creams and serums is that because they are unstable, they are oxidized very quickly and once it is oxidized it does not provide any benefit to the skin at all. Even in stabilized formulations there is a risk that before vitamin C cream or serum is used it may be damaged.

The indicator is in the yellowing of vitamin C serum which indicates oxidation. As it undergoes oxidation the ascorbic acid takes on a yellowish tinge, and if there is any yellow discoloration the product needs to be discarded. However, there is a problem with the color check because the first stage of oxidation is colorless, so prior to going a yellowish tinge it can be in an oxidized state that cannot be detected.

The problem becomes more difficult because many vitamin C serums are tinted making it difficult to detect if it is oxidized by visual checking. Best advice is to not to buy tinted formulations of vitamin C.

Packaging is Important

Since Vitamin C is easily broken down by air and sunlight, the packaging is extremely important. To be beneficial, vitamin C should be packaged in tubes, capsules or pumps that do not allow air in unlike jars or clear containers which will render vitamin C worthless.

Benefits

The most effective method for replenishing vitamin C in the skin is to apply it directly to the skin. When topically applied, vitamin C provides a skin-rejuvenating effect by improving collagen synthesis in the skin that slows down with aging, as well as limiting skin damage from free radicals. Applying topical vitamin C to the skin is 20 times more effective than oral ingestion.
Vitamin C is one of the most effective and important ingredients to treat a number of skin problems, including aging skin, acne and pigmentation disorders.


Thursday, October 1, 2009

An Evening with SkinMedica

Recently, I attended an “Evening of Beauty” at Soleil Salon & Spa in Windham, NH. A number of invited guests were in attendance for a featured presentation on their Exclusive Medical Skin Care line, SkinMedica. The speaker was Debbie Neilan, Skin Educator and Sales Consultant for SkinMedica. She was informative and very personable in presenting the physician strength products of SkinMedica. Her style of explaining what SkinMedica ingredients do for your skin was complemented by her professional PowerPoint presentation.

The Soleil Salon & Spa made this evening fun and enjoyable, offering appetizers, sangrias, raffles and giveaways. There was a special 20% discount on all SkinMedica product purchases of $150 or more; in addition, to a 15% discount given with the purchase of a series of three Vitalize Peels. These attractive discounts resulted in nice purchases for invited guests.

Soleil Salon & Spa

Soleil Salon & Spa http://www.soleil-salon.com/ is owned and operated by Luisa Garcia and has been in business over 7 years . Soleil in French means sun. Luisa believes, “It is the sun that gives us light and energy. It is the energy that we put into the services we offer our clients.” She has incorporated her Spanish and Puerto Rican influences in the interior design of the Spa. Warm earthy tones carry you from room to room. The experience is similar to an inviting, beautiful oasis.

She’s created a full service salon and wellness spa committed to beauty and well-being offering professional hair, nails and skin care products. Services include a styling staff featuring latest trends in cuts, fashion, and styles. Asethetics services offer revitalizing facials, body treatments, and eye treatment specialities. A range of massages are also offered along with pedicures services.

SkinMedica

The SkinMedica line http://www.skinmedica.com/ with NouriCel-MD (TNS Recovery Complex) as its core category of products offers a complete line of skin care products. NouriCel-MD is a combination of growth factors that are important to the regeneration of healthy skin. TNS (Tissue Nutrient Solution) is the trade name given to identify products in the SkinMedica line that contain NouriCel-MD. SkinMedica has leveraged this unique technology with other innovative ingredients to create an entire collection of TNS products that provide optimal skin rejuvenation.

Physician Strength

Debbie Neilan introduced us to SkinMedica by explaining what is meant by physician strength in their product line. First, their aesthetic product line is based on the science of the skin’s own healing abilities. As skin ages, elasticity decreases, lines appear and overall appearance is diminished. To counteract these effects, SkinMedica products contain the highest level of active ingredients that work below the skin’s surface to regenerate the health of the skin.

Second, its clinically proven recovery compounds include ingredients ranging from Vitamins C and E to retinol to NouriCel-MD which is a blend of growth factors, soluble collagen, antioxidants, and matrix proteins. The appearance of fine lines are reduced, age spots and discoloration fade, and skin texture and elasticity are improved. Debbie spoke at length on how specific ingredients like peptides, retinol, hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants help our skin.

Vitalize Peel

Debbie continued her presentation by talking about SkinMedica Vitalize Peel which is a chemical peel that rids dead surface skin. It works by a combination of Alpha and Beta Hydroxyl Acids and retinoic acid. The Vitalize Peel is a treatment that is appropriate for all skin types and has been clinically proven to help reduce the visible signs of aging. Results are cumulative and maximum benefits are seen with a series of three or more peels. This peel can take years off aging skin and is excellent for acenic skin, hyperpigmentation and melasma.

The Feel of the Product

Throughout Debbie’s presentation she took questions, and allowed us to sample products. Her knowledge was extensive, and the guests walked away with an appreciation of how products are packaged and especially labeled into categories for better understanding of their primary purpose. It was a great opportunity for “hands on”! The experience of opening and applying a small drop of serum, cleanser or moisturizer kept everyone engaged. Feeling the texture and smoothness proved very beneficial especially in the number of purchases at the end of the evening.

Evening Highlights

The highlights to the evening were the elaboration on the TNS Essential Serum and TNS Recovery Complex. Both work to transform and regenerate your skin for a youthful appearance.

TNS Essential Serum is an age defense product used to soften fine lines, brighten the complexion and fill surface folds. It’s the first to provide the growth factor serum, TNS Recovery Complex in one chamber and APS Corrective Complex, (a mixture of antioxidants, peptides and other anti-aging ingredients) in the other chamber.

TNS Recovery Complex is a gel formulation containing 93.6% NouriCel-MD to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, diminish the appearance of age spots and dyspigmentation, reduce roughness, and firm skin texture. Its aim is to flood area of skin damage with 110 growth factors!

All of SkinMedica’s products are developed by a dermatologist and bioengineered to work together to enhance the beauty of your skin.