What's an Ultrasonic Facial?

An ultrasonic facial is a facial using ultrasound frequency that works with the skin layers. Dermasound is the trade mark name for Glymed Plus, www.glymedplus.com. This technology uses low frequency ultrasound to loosen and remove dead cells and debris from the skin’s surface. DermaSoundTM Elite is a simple, three-stage system for mechanical exfoliation, molecular product penetration and healing micro amp therapy.

Three phases are incorporated using the ultrasound frequency:

1. Peeling Phase
2. Lead-in Phase
3. Patting Phase

The Peeling Phase helps to remove between 20%-50% of the stratum corneum which is the layer we are continuously shedding. This phase provides exfoliation with no irritation or inflammation. It uses no crystals, salts or chemicals. How does it work?

A product is used to help retain water on the top of the skin and filtered water is applied. By using the wand applicator (hand paddle) and by lightly pushing the water over the skin, creates a plume from the water. This spinning of the water molecules on the skin is what separates out the corneocytes, removing dead skin cells.

The Lead-In Phase consists of penetrating specific product chosen for the client. The lotion, cream, or serum is applied to the skin. The hand paddle is then lightly pulled over the skin. The ultrasound frequency penetrates the product.

Antioxidant infusion takes place when low frequency ultrasound waves open microscopic pathways between the cells through which a chosen treatment product can flow. This penetration reaches the deepest layers of the dermis where new cells are forming new skin.

The Patting Phase normalizes the skin. The paddle is lightly pulled in sections over all areas of the skin. This creates a slight pulsing and warming on the face. The low level electrical current reaches injured cells and restores them to normal balance and function. The padding phase helps to normalize the electric current within the cells and promote regeneration of healthy ones.

The benefits of an ultrasonic facial:

• Provides greater penetration of product to help hydration, acne, fine lines and wrinkles
• Helps to breakup and kill bacteria for acne or problem skin
• Stimulates and promotes collagen and elastin reproduction

The Ultrasonic Facial is a simple, painless treatment that offers another means for removing dead skin cells and penetrating product.

Active Ingredients are great performers.

If you were to compare skin care products and ingredients of a retail store to that of a professional line, you would realize that some products are better than others.
The main difference between a cosmetic product from a pharmaceutical is that the cosmetic’s ingredients will remain on the surface of the skin and the pharmaceutical will penetrate.

Active ingredient defined by Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary, is an ingredient with “treatment value.” When placed on the skin, it would perform a therapeutic or beneficial function such as healing, hydrating, soothing, and toning.

Ingredients can be derived from plants, vitamins, or animals, and are also synthesized from chemicals. A preservative is an inactive ingredient which is necessary to the product formulation. What allows products to spread, gives them body and texture, and a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel are the functional ingredients.

Active ingredients are sometimes called performance ingredients. They are used in prescription-only products and cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin.

Examples: glycerin which hydrates the skin surface; alphahydroxy acids AHAs which exfoliate the corneum; and lipids which help patch the skin’s barrier.

Use of an Active Ingredient

We choose active ingredients according to our skin type. When using the right active ingredient in the appropriate form such as solution, serum, cream, lotion, or ointment, the result of the product becomes evident.

“Sometimes you will need to use more than one active ingredient; the synergistic mechanism of two or more active ingredients can often increase efficacy and results” said Dr. Neal B. Schultz author of It’s Not Just About Wrinkles. He goes further to say, “When using more than one active ingredient, begin with the product that is in the lightest form. A lighter product will never penetrate a heavier product.”

First: Use water or alcohol-based products;
Second: solutions, serums, or lotions;
Third: creams;
Last: petroleum-based products.

In Away With Wrinkles, author and dermatologist Dr. Nicholas Lowe, clarifies what to look for in the active ingredients of creams:

• Moisturization from humectants such as glycerine or sodium hyduronate


• Antioxidant mixtures, e.g. vitamin E (tocopherols), vitamin C (ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate)


• Low levels of retinoids, such as retinal, retinaldehyde, and vitamin A

What about Cosmeceuticals?

Cosmeceuticals are products intended to improve the skin’s health and appearance. They are scientifically designed topical products that meet chemical, pharmaceutical and medical standards but they do not change the structure and function of the skin. In other words, they are not classed as pharmaceutical prescription creams. They contain ingredients that influence the biological function of the skin. Cosmeceuticals improve appearance, and they do so by delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin (e.g. neither too dry nor too greasy.)

Dermatologist Patricia K. Farris, MD, FAAD, clinical associate professor of dermatology at Tulane University School of Medicine in New Orleans states:

“Cosmeceuticals are divided into three categories based on their active ingredients:

1. Anti-oxidants can reduce the harmful effects of free radicals, which are molecules that injure the skin's cells, causing inflammation, increasing sun damage and contributing to the development of skin cancer.


2. Peptides are smaller proteins that stimulate the production of collagen and thicken the skin.


3. Growth factors are compounds that act as chemical messengers between cells and play a role in cell division, new cell and blood vessel growth, and in the production and distribution of collagen and elastin.”

Dr. Patricia Farris recommends:
For day, wear sunscreen and consider also using products containing anti-oxidants, as they have sun-protection properties. At night, use products containing retinoids, peptides or growth factors for their repair properties.

What is Microdermabrasion?

A microdermabrasion treatment is a mechanical form of exfoliation that uses very small crystals which is vacuum sprayed (sucked) across the surface of the skin, causing the removal of surface skin cells. It is akin to a glycolic peel that only removes part of the uppermost layer of the epidermis. Microdermabrasion machines are used in skin care clinics, spas and medical offices.
The treatment entails spraying microcrystal’s composed of aluminum oxide, salt, sodium chloride, or sodium bicarbonate across the skin’s surface through a closed stainless steel or glass pressurized wand. By employing the mechanics of negative pressure over the surface of the skin, the dead cells are exfoliated.

Dermatologist and skin surgeon, Dr. Nicholas Lowe, author of Away with Wrinkles, states, “Microdermabrasion has been shown to be particularly beneficial when used in conjunction with glycolic acid chemical peels and topical creams such as Retin-A and skin-lightening combinations for problems such as facial pigmentation (such as dark skin or mask of pregnancy).”

The depth of the microdermabrasion treatment is created by several factors including:

• Method of skin preparation
• Number of passes over the skin
• Level of suction on negative pressure machines (stronger suction will create a more aggressive treatment). The same can be said with pressure of the hand piece over the skin.
• Frequency of treatments and the condition of the skin
• Use of an AHA peel either pre-treatment or post treatment

According to Michelle Palmer, a Certified Traditional Naturopath and Medical Esthetic Specialist and member of the Editorial Team of Medical Esthetics said, “The benefits of microdermabrasion to the skin have been claimed to reach far beyond simple exfoliation of the epidermis. It has been claimed to accelerate skin cell turnover. And by stimulating fibroblast activity, it is believed to actually increase collagen production.”

Useful Tool for Treating:

• Thick, rough skin.
• Comodones and small acne spots
• Irregular pigmentation
• Small, shallow scars
• Dull skin by increasing circulation, making the skin look revitalized
• Fine lines and minor wrinkles
• Enlarged/clogged pores
• Excessive oiliness

Contraindications of microdermabrasion:

• Rosacea
• Oral blood thinners
• Skin cancer and auto immune disorders such as HIV or AIDS
• Vitiligo
• Telangiectasias
• Eczema of seborrheic dermatitis
• Sun burned skin
• Viral lesions, Herpes Simplex, Shingles
• Active, uncontrolled or brittle diabetes

If microdermabrasion is correctly performed, there should be no visible problems other than a slight pinkness of the facial skin. If the treatment is performed too deeply, there can be surface bruising and a change of skin color.

"While the vast majority of microdermabrasion patients experience visible improvements after just one microdermabrasion treatment, long-lasting results are only achieved through multiple sessions. Most aestheticians and cosmetic dermatologists recommend that patients have between four and eight treatments at two to three-week intervals. Many microdermabrasion advertisements of salons, spas, and dermatologists quote the price of a single session. However, some salons and dermatology practices have special microdermabrasion packages that lower the price of multiple sessions," http://www.docshop.com/.

According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, the cost of microdermabrasion ranges from $75 to more than $200 per session. Microdermabrasion is a relatively safe treatment, when performed by an adequately trained skin care or medical professional, with properly maintained equipment.

What’s good about AHAs, BHAs and BPOs?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

The family name for a group of naturally occurring acids referred to as “fruit acids.” AHAs are derived from a variety of sources including sugarcane, apples, grapes, citrus fruits, sour milk and rice. They are used in moisturizers, emollients and exfoliants. Their activity and benefits are dependent on the type of AHA used, the concentration employed and the pH of the formula.

They are proven to produce a reduction of fine lines and superficial wrinkles, a lightening of surface pigmentation, and softer skin with improved hydration. They work by dissolving the “glue” that holds dead cells together on the surface of the skin.

The three most commonly used alpha hydroxy acids are lactic acid, glycolic acid and pyruvic acid:

• Lactic acid is used mostly as a body moisturizer to remove superficial, scaly dead cells and to lessen the rough, irritated skin that occurs on arms and legs. Lac-Hydrin 30 is a higher concentration of lactic acid available by prescription only. Lac-Hydrin 30 joins Renova as the creams that reverse some of the sun aging process.

• Glycolic acid is used for restoring even color and smooth texture to the skin. The strength of glycolic acid is crucial to its effect. Dermatologist Dr. Neal Schultz, author of It's Not Just About Wrinkles believes, “glycolic acid is the most effective active ingredient with the widest therapeutic margin -of all the keratolytics. You have to use it in the right strength and form to see results.”
  Over-the-counter glycolic acids generally contain less than 10 percent (3 or 4 percent) of glycolic acid whereas prescription strength glycolic acids generally contain more than 10 percent free acid concentration.

• Pyruvic acid is used in doctors’ offices to do a controlled peel of the skin. It’s designed to remove enough layers of the skin to cause crusting.

Beta hydroxy acid (BHAs)
Beta hydroxy acids are naturally derived compounds. Salicylic acid is the best known example of a beta hydroxy acid. Used to reduce wrinkles and dry flaky skin, aging skin, acne and can help reduce mildly uneven pigmentation. Salicylic acid is classified as an aromatic acid that is primarily used to treat childhood and teenage acne. Since the anti-aging market arrived the uses of salicylic acid expanded into astringents, cleansers, creams and chemical peels.

Dermatologist Dr. Lawrence Green, author of The Dermatologist’s Guide to Looking Young states, “At present salicylic acid is also being used to help reduce the appearance of sun-damaged skin. Some dermatologist believe that salicylic acid, used in superficial peel strength formulation, can be as effective as but less irritating than alpha hydroxy acids in reducing sun damage.”

Benzoyl Peroxide (BPO)
A drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used in acne treatments. It irrigates and sloughs out acne impactions. BPOs reduce the level of free fatty acids and the level of skin infection. The function of BPOs is to force peroxide into the pilosebaceous orifice to reduce the population of P. acnes . "Benzoyl peroxide dries and peels the skin and removes dead cells, helps to clear blocked follicles, the non-inflammatory comedones, and it works on the papules and pustules," states Dermatologist Herbert P. Goodheart author of Acne for Dummies.

AHAs and BHAs can be added to gels, lotions, serums, or creams. However, recent research suggests that alpha hydroxy acids may make the skin more sensitive to sunlight according to Dermatologist Dr. Leslie Baumann. Therefore, do not be lax about sunscreen use.

Guidelines for an Effective Skin Analysis

An accurate skin analysis requires not only skill, but the ability of the skin therapist to apply their knowledge about skin types and skin conditions into the factors that affect the skin’s health. Start by looking at the skin’s visible appearance and ask yourself.
What active ingredients will best meet the needs of this particular skin type and the conditions that are present?

While it is easy for a client to look in a mirror and see issues on their skin, it is the skill of the skin therapist to ask the client some qualifying questions about their skin before the facial.
For example:

When was the first time you loved the look and feel of your skin? What did you like about it?
What challenges are you currently having with your skin?
If you could change anything about your skin, what would it be?
What products are you using for your skin care? Are you pleased with the results?

Analyzing the skin starts with looking and touching the skin.

Visually noticing the client’s skin before cleansing is extremely helpful for certain issues will be eliminated once the skin is cleansed. In particular, looking to see if there are areas with an oily shine, flakiness, or if erythema is present. These visual observations along with a thorough health consultation enhances facial treatments.

An effective skin analysis starts by using either a magnifying lamp/light or the woods lamp. Once the client is cleansed, then the detail observation can be charted.

Guidelines:

Skin Type: Identify whether the skin is a Normal, Dry, Oily, Combination, or Sensitive Skin Type.

Secretion: Determine whether the client is oil-rich, oil-poor, or has a balanced oil production. Oil-rich is within the T-Zone and oil-poor falls outside of the T-Zone.

Hydration: Identify whether the condition of the skin is dehydrated, lacking water by signs of tightness, and flaking of the skin. By pinching the skin together on the forehead, does the appearance of tiny lines show? Does the area around the lips appear cracked and dry? If so, then the skin is dehydrated. A hydrated condition feels soft and moist. If the skin springs back upon pinching the forehead without any tiny lines then the skin is hydrated.

Sensitivity: Note the blood circulation especially if the sensitivity is more or less after cleansing than before. Normal circulation shows a healthy pink look. Over stimulated circulation has the appearance of redness. Sluggish circulation has a pale, yellow, sallow appearance.

Texture: Run your fingers across the skin and feel if there is any lack of slip or ease. Observe flakes and the presence of large pores that are most obvious on the nose, lower forehead, chin, and inner aspects of the cheeks. Chart whether the skin is fine-textured with small pores; even textured with medium pores; or rough textured with large pores.

Pigmentation: Identify the skin tone. Hyper pigmentation is an over production of pigment contributing to areas of brown discoloration. Hypo pigmentation lacks pigment contributing to any white, colorless areas.

Lesions: Identify if any red lesions are present.

• Telangiectasias are most common on the side of the nose. Dilated blood vessels appearing as tiny straight or curved red lines.


• Cherry hemangiomas are tiny and round, bright red spots that occur as a function of getting older.


• Spider hemangiomas are small red raised spots with little red lines emanating from the center.


• Red blotches are a large cluster of tiny enlarged blood vessels that appear as a red spot.
  Also, note any comedones, papules or milia present.

Muscle Tone: Determine the elasticity of the skin. The area under the chin is the best indicator. If the skin under the chin springs back easily it is a Firm tone. If the skin is less elastic then it is a Lax tone. If the skin has no spring or elasticity then it is a Slack tone.

There are many different types of facials, peels, products and ingredients available for each skin type. Effective care of the skin offers solutions that allows for customization. However, before making any product or facial recommendations, “The standard in the industry has to include a complete analysis of the skin,” said An G. Hinds, the president of Catherine Hinds Institute of Esthetics in Woburn, MA.

What's the Focus of a Facial?

Facials help to maintain the health of the skin and correct certain skin conditions through deep cleansing, massage, the use of masks and other products, and various treatment methods. But, the focus for providing a facial treatment, needs to be clarified.

There are four overall objectives in performing a facial treatment:

1. Balance the hydrolipidic film
2. Inhibit keratinization
3. Control the metabolism of the skin
4. Control conditions

Balance the Hydrolipidic Film

The hydrolipidic film is made up of water and sebum and protects the skin from becoming dehydrated. It is responsible for maintaining the flexibility of the skin. The goal of the skin therapist is to create a balance of oil and water by the use of correct products.

If the skin is oilier, the skin therapist uses water based products. If the skin is dehydrated and oil dry, the skin therapist uses oil based products.

Inhibit Keratinization

Keratinization occurs when the dead skin cells remain dormant and lifeless on the surfaces of the skin. Through means of exfoliation the buildup of these skin cells, oil, and debris on the surface of the skin is inhibited resulting in a fresher, healthier look.

The skin functions better when this is maintained and can be accomplished by the skin therapist using either topical peeling agents, enzymes, scrubbing or microdermabrasion.

Control the Metabolism of the Skin

Controlling the metabolism of the skin can be done with either a stimulation process or a sedation process. When the goal is to minimize the appearance of sluggishness, congestion, blackheads, and milia by methods of stimulation the skin therapist applies steam, heat, or massage. When the goal is to minimize the appearance of irritation by methods of sedation the skin therapist will applied cold packs, or masks.

Effective stimulation helps the skin by supplying increased amounts of nutrients to the skin, inhibiting the degeneration of collagen and elastin fibers, and slowing the reproductive abilities of the cells in general. Stimulation is the key to an effective skin care program.

Some examples of stimulation's methods:

Chemical/Acid Peels, Topicals with Low pH, Warm towels, Steam,
High Frequency, Microdermabrasion, Electronic Stimulators, Massage

Sedation slows down the rush of blood flow to the skin which results in a non-irritated state.

Some examples of sedation methods:

Cool towels, Ice packs, Soothing Masks, Soothing Topicals, Vascular Lasers

Correct Conditions

After making an effective skin analysis and determining what condition is present, associate the condition with either being stimulated or sedated. Help to correct the specific condition(s) within the skin by various methods of stimulation or sedation techniques or the use of topical products.

For a prescription-strength product line used by physicians, skin care therapists, and patients, Obagi Medical Products can help transform your skin http://www.obagi.com/.

Skin therapists have many tools in which they can affect the outer most layers of the skin, as well as, the internal mechanisms within the tissue to minimize certain skin conditions and achieve healthier skin.