Monday, August 10, 2009

Guidelines for an Effective Skin Analysis

An accurate skin analysis requires not only skill, but the ability of the skin therapist to apply their knowledge about skin types and skin conditions into the factors that affect the skin’s health. Start by looking at the skin’s visible appearance and ask yourself.
What active ingredients will best meet the needs of this particular skin type and the conditions that are present?

While it is easy for a client to look in a mirror and see issues on their skin, it is the skill of the skin therapist to ask the client some qualifying questions about their skin before the facial.
For example:

When was the first time you loved the look and feel of your skin? What did you like about it?
What challenges are you currently having with your skin?
If you could change anything about your skin, what would it be?
What products are you using for your skin care? Are you pleased with the results?

Analyzing the skin starts with looking and touching the skin.

Visually noticing the client’s skin before cleansing is extremely helpful for certain issues will be eliminated once the skin is cleansed. In particular, looking to see if there are areas with an oily shine, flakiness, or if erythema is present. These visual observations along with a thorough health consultation enhances facial treatments.

An effective skin analysis starts by using either a magnifying lamp/light or the woods lamp. Once the client is cleansed, then the detail observation can be charted.

Guidelines:

Skin Type:
Identify whether the skin is a Normal, Dry, Oily, Combination, or Sensitive Skin Type.

Secretion: Determine whether the client is oil-rich, oil-poor, or has a balanced oil production. Oil-rich is within the T-Zone and oil-poor falls outside of the T-Zone.

Hydration: Identify whether the condition of the skin is dehydrated, lacking water by signs of tightness, and flaking of the skin. By pinching the skin together on the forehead, does the appearance of tiny lines show? Does the area around the lips appear cracked and dry? If so, then the skin is dehydrated. A hydrated condition feels soft and moist. If the skin springs back upon pinching the forehead without any tiny lines then the skin is hydrated.

Sensitivity: Note the blood circulation especially if the sensitivity is more or less after cleansing than before. Normal circulation shows a healthy pink look. Over stimulated circulation has the appearance of redness. Sluggish circulation has a pale, yellow, sallow appearance.

Texture: Run your fingers across the skin and feel if there is any lack of slip or ease. Observe flakes and the presence of large pores that are most obvious on the nose, lower forehead, chin, and inner aspects of the cheeks. Chart whether the skin is fine-textured with small pores; even textured with medium pores; or rough textured with large pores.

Pigmentation: Identify the skin tone. Hyper pigmentation is an over production of pigment contributing to areas of brown discoloration. Hypo pigmentation lacks pigment contributing to any white, colorless areas.

Lesions: Identify if any red lesions are present.


  • Telangiectasias are most common on the side of the nose. Dilated blood vessels appearing as tiny straight or curved red lines.

  • Cherry hemangiomas are tiny and round, bright red spots that occur as a function of getting older.

  • Spider hemangiomas are small red raised spots with little red lines emanating from the center.

  • Red blotches are a large cluster of tiny enlarged blood vessels that appear as a red spot.
    Also, note any comedones, papules or milia present.

Muscle Tone: Determine the elasticity of the skin. The area under the chin is the best indicator. If the skin under the chin springs back easily it is a Firm tone. If the skin is less elastic then it is a Lax tone. If the skin has no spring or elasticity then it is a Slack tone.


There are many different types of facials, peels, products and ingredients available for each skin type. Effective care of the skin offers solutions that allows for customization. However, before making any product or facial recommendations, “The standard in the industry has to include a complete analysis of the skin,” said An G. Hinds, the president of Catherine Hinds Institute of Esthetics in Woburn, MA.


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