Topical Vitamin C Revitalizes Aging Skin

Topical Vitamin C is an important component of most anti-aging skin care regimens. The amount of collagen in the skin tends to decline with age, an ongoing process that is accelerated by a number of factors like sunlight, smoking, free radicals, and inflammation. As the synthesis of new collagen slows down, topical vitamin C provides one of the most effective ways to boost collagen synthesis and slow its degradation.

In the June 2009 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine, Dr. Peter T. Pugliese, MD stated in his article Vitamin C in Skin Care, “Vitamin C was originally used in skin care products in the form of ascorbic acid. At a 10% concentration and low ph, ascorbic acid has been shown to stimulate collagen, decrease wrinkle depth and have lightening effects on pigmentation. It was thought that a minimum 10% concentration was required but newer information indicate that lower concentrations (5%) may have benefit.” According to other reports, Topical Vitamin C products should be a strength of 0.3 to 10% for optimal effectiveness.

Topical Vitamin C is used in skin care because it is an antioxidant. This means that it is able to neutralize oxygen free radicals. Free radicals over time will damage the skin cells and deteriorate the underlying structure of the skin resulting in changes of the skin’s complexion, sun spots, and wrinkles. The use of vitamin C is a major line of defense in the treatment of aging skin because it is essential to the formation of collagen, mitigates the effects of free radicals, and helps to maintain firm and youthful skin.

The forms of Vitamin C

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucosamine and ascorbic acid are various forms of vitamin C considered stable and effective antioxidants for the skin. Vitamin C in the form of Ascorbic Acid is very expensive. Vitamin C is very unstable and difficult to get into a formulation which explains why ascorbic acid skin products tend to be very expensive.

The problem with Ascorbic Acid creams and serums is that because they are unstable, they are oxidized very quickly and once it is oxidized it does not provide any benefit to the skin at all. Even in stabilized formulations there is a risk that before vitamin C cream or serum is used it may be damaged.

The indicator is in the yellowing of vitamin C serum which indicates oxidation. As it undergoes oxidation the ascorbic acid takes on a yellowish tinge, and if there is any yellow discoloration the product needs to be discarded. However, there is a problem with the color check because the first stage of oxidation is colorless, so prior to going a yellowish tinge it can be in an oxidized state that cannot be detected.

The problem becomes more difficult because many vitamin C serums are tinted making it difficult to detect if it is oxidized by visual checking. Best advice is to not to buy tinted formulations of vitamin C.

Packaging is Important

Since Vitamin C is easily broken down by air and sunlight, the packaging is extremely important. To be beneficial, vitamin C should be packaged in tubes, capsules or pumps that do not allow air in unlike jars or clear containers which will render vitamin C worthless.

Benefits

The most effective method for replenishing vitamin C in the skin is to apply it directly to the skin. When topically applied, vitamin C provides a skin-rejuvenating effect by improving collagen synthesis in the skin that slows down with aging, as well as limiting skin damage from free radicals. Applying topical vitamin C to the skin is 20 times more effective than oral ingestion.
Vitamin C is one of the most effective and important ingredients to treat a number of skin problems, including aging skin, acne and pigmentation disorders.