Exfoliation is defined as the peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin. We exfoliate to speed up the breakdown of dead keratinocytes, which are scale-like cells found on the skin’s surface. This is accomplished manually (scrubs) or chemically, by the use of specific products (glycolic acid) formulated to achieve specific results.
Cell Renewal Factor
A natural process that slows down with age is the cell renewal factor (CRF). CRF is what keeps cells from building up. Dead cells made primarily of soft keratin called keratinocytes, are continually shed and replaced by new cells coming to the surface of the corneum.
The average CRF rate for adults 50 years and older is 42-84 days. This may appear normal. However, when the adult CRF rate is compared to the CRF rate of babies which is 14 days; adolescents, 21-28 days; and then middle-age adults which is 28-42 days; the need to exfoliate once or twice a week is clearly understood. Gentle exfoliation helps the skin to look more alive and healthy.
Two types of exfoliation treatments
Mechanical is a method of rubbing dead cells off the skin by granular scrubs, or by the use of brushing machines. This is done once or twice a week depending on the skin type. Exfoliate occasionally if you have rough or dry skin.
Mechanical exfoliating ingredients such as, polyethylene and jojoba beads are added to cleansers or granular scrubs to physically rub dead cells off of the skin. Newport Cosmeceuticals, Buffing Granules is one such product, www.newportcosmeceuticals.com.
Pevonia Botanica, Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser combines soapwort, horse chestnut and chamomile to eliminate dead cells, www.pervonia.com. These products can be found at salons and spas.
Chemical exfoliation dissolves dead skin cells by chemical agents. Alphahydroxy acids (AHAs) and betahydroxy acids (BHAs) work by loosening the bond between cells “intercellular glue” in the surface of the corneum. Enzyme peels are designed to digest the dead cells on the surface. They can be a cream or powder that produces a more even peeling of cell-build up. Peels use keratolytic enzymes that break down the keratin protein in the skin. The most often used are papain and pancreatin.
Benefits of Exfoliation:
- Increases cell turnover rate more rapidly
- Improves the skin’s ability to retain moisture
- Facilitates effective delivery of product ingredients into the epidermis
- Stimulates blood flow
- Produces smoother skin
With any good thing, one needs to be careful. Over-exfoliation can cause irritation, damage the skin and capillaries, and impede normal cellular functions.
An important note, skin care therapists/estheticians use treatments designed to penetrate only the epidermis. Dermatologists, use procedures designed to penetrate the dermal layer of the skin.
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